Great Circle Cruise 2008

Greetings from THE WIFE......

Well here we sit Day 6 at the marina in Geneva/Waterloo, NY--It is cloudy- really overcast and cool--really cool. Today I listened to NOAA and Senor Seafog as he is known aboard CC Rider (but that's a story for another day) announced that the temperatures would "struggle" to reach 60.

Not sure when we'll leave because the boat is being hateful. This morning at 4 am I awoke to a beeping sound. Mind you I was sound asleep with ear plugs securely in place and I could hear the beeping distinctly over Charles' sleeping noises. I said, "Charles, I hear beeping" He sits straight up and begins feeling for his glasses, jumps out of bed and lo and behold, the sound is emanating from the galley. The refrigerator is trying to die..NO!!! this can't be, I spent all day cooking and putting the food in the freezer..I hate to cook, I only do it so we can eat, which I rather enjoy. I notice the beeping has stopped and I am so relieved.....Darn! it only stopped because the power has been turned off. Charles comes back to bed and announces that the refrigerator is dead. I do not respond.

It is very exhausting trying to get the boat ready to go, and that's when everything goes well.

On Day 2, I began cleaning only to discover that we have water seeping out from under the sink and making a puddle on the lovely wood floor. All of the lines under the sink had to be replaced and I can't tell you how many times I had to go outside- walk the dock and turn the water off and then back on (20 times). One good thing about being on a boat is that you never take things for granted, the boat makes you appreciate anything that works like it's supposed to.

Now back to the fridge...It seems, upon closer examination, that the little computer box is dead-we hope not the whole refrigerator. When I finally decided to get out of bed this morning Charles had located a dealer/service man who may have the part and may come over to the boat to install it....We'll see. Today is Saturday and this may happen on Monday----Hope springs eternal...

We are at Barrett's Marine in Waterloo, New York. The folks here are so nice and extremely efficient. It seems they do things a little differently in New York and of course, they all have accents. Here you can call them on the phone and they actually will unwrap your boat and put it in a slip for you. Last year I almost wrapped myself in plastic helping Charles unwrap this boat. For those of you who haven't ventured north of the Chesapeake I highly recommend this place. It's really lovely -the trees and flowers are breathtaking and the wine is good (they make it themselves and they'll let you watch).

Hope all is going well for all of you and we'll keep you posted.

THE WIFE

P.S. ONE fitting was leaking under the sink and fortunately I found a replacement----not an exact one, that goes without saying, but with a bit of " engineering" it works great.

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May 15, 2008

GREETINGS FROM THE WIFE

A DAY IN THE LIFE

It's official-we're back on the boat and underway. We left yesterday and traveled less than 10 miles and 1 lock---hey, it's a start

I think it's good to EASE back into this living on a boat thing- First we drove back to Waterloo, New York-stayed in a hotel for 2 days-then the boat gets plopped back into the water and we move aboard---SLOWLY We have electricity, water, clean sheets, etc. and a car--but no washer and dryer
Then we leave --still have electricity and water--but no car Today 3 locks, 30 miles--no electricity or water--but we're tied to a dock and I can still shop and eat out See the progression---eventually I'll be content to be bobbing in the water like a cork with little else because in a few days when we put fuel in this boat there will be no more shopping or eating out.....

Today we arrived at the dock and there's a guy wanting to take a line and help us tie up--sounds neighborly, right? OK he's wearing camouflage pants-no shoes, no shirt and tattoos everywhere-I mean seriously who can endure that many tattoos and remain a thoughtful, rational,reasonable or sober human being? The whole docking thing is intense enough---anyway---I smile-toss him the line and he does exactly as I ask--I'm quite pleased...

However, about an hour later he's joined by another guy and this guy is huge (as my Dad would say "he must be close to 300 pounds--this statement covers a range of 200 to 350 pounds) Guy #2 is making the same fashion statement- no shoes and dear God, no shirt!!!! The 2 of them are standing face to face and butting their stomachs together and grunting loudly--of course this is the precise moment that Charles and I are walking off the boat to go for a walk. I tried---I seriously tried, but I am only flesh and blood...Guy #1 says: "Don't worry ma'am, you're perfectly safe---we'll protect you . It's a male bonding thing" and that's when I lost it and laughed....a lot.

It's late now and raining a bit, but he's still there---our sentry---I'll just call him Rambo, Jr.

Another boating season has commenced........

Lying (temporarily, trust me) Baldwinsville, New York

THE WIFE

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May 30, 2008

Greetings,

The longest winter of my life ended yesterday at 3:30 pm. It may have been hastened a bit by the 90 minute walk wearing jeans, socks and carrying a jacket. This walk was supposed to be 15 minutes one way-Oh there's a surprise-Ask directions from people and put lots of emphasis on the words "we're walking" and of all the people one could ask somehow we always get the one who hasn't walked more than a 1/2 block since Jr. High and they're GUESSING and apparently not good at that either.

The reason this is the longest winter is because my husband (the Captain) was a bit antsy to get back to this silly boat and we left a few weeks (OK probably a month) too soon. Everyone and I do mean everyone, that we asked said wait-wait-wait. But NO- we arrived in Waterloo, NEW YORK on May 4....We received an email from Wayne Flatt when we were in Phoenix NEW YORK saying that he hoped we were in Arizona because it's way too early to be in NEW YORK !!!!

Why do men seek advice anyway?

The whole point of being here so early was "Oh, Pat we'll get stuff done
on the boat before we start this year's cruise."
This is what we accomplished:
1. Put wheels and shafts back in (this part was critical).
2. Bought food
3. Plopped boat back in water (this too was critical)
4. Sanded teak (don't get too excited, handrails only)

THAT'S IT .....OFF WE GO !!!!!

I have been whining about the teak for 3 years, now it looks worse--so be careful what you ask for.

This is the last year of cruising with locks---we have completed 12 of this set of 43 and I am already so over it. We still have the big one that looks like a ferris wheel coming up--I may faint or something. One more thing while I'm on the subject , Lock Masters, could you please just decide...Port or starboard tie-up----not back & forth---I can already hear some of you saying why don't they just fender both sides? I wanted more fenders, but Charles reasoned that regardless of how many I have, I'd just put them on the same side (just in case) and he may have a point----

On a really pitiful note, our cell phone plan to include Canada actually only includes bits of Canada and we haven't reached those parts yet (or maybe ever) So yesterday was Gracie's 7th birthday. We walked all that way to call and say Happy Birthday but there was no answer so I didn't
get to speak to her which breaks my heart. Will try again today but it won't be THE DAY, so do you think she'll understand, of course not she's
7--the only thing she knows is that her Aunt Pat didn't call on her birthday so in case I don't get through could someone call her 985-385-2385 and tell her that Aunt Pat asked you to call and say Happy Birthday...Thanks

On a happier note, today I did find a fabulous bakery and we're going to Canadian Tire. For the uninitiated, Canadian Tire is like Wal-Mart with
a moderate sprinkling of testosterone...It just doesn't get any better.......

Love to all,

THE WIFE

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TRENT SEVERN TECHNICAL STUFF

Greetings,

THE WIFE has been doing yeoman service in the posting department this season so this is my first. Yes, I know she is a better writer than I but I deal in the technical stuff!!

As you know we boarded the boat in Geneva/Waterloo, NY on May 6, and departed several days later on the NY canals for Oswego where we crossed Lake Ontario to Picton, Ontario. (Since we had spent time at Kingston, Ont. last year we did not go back.) I obtained local knowledge from some Canadians who had purchased a boat in the Long Island area and were on their way home to Trenton. They advised me that it is OK to cross from Oswego to Main Duck Island leaving it on our starboard side. From Oswego we plotted a course to the buoy M9 at Main Duck Island passing between it and M10. Then headed to KM2 leaving it on our starboard side thence to KM4. We were told to leave KM5 on our port side and to NOT cut the corner even though it appears OK. This course took us south and west of Amherst Island into Adolphus Reach with plenty of water under the keel.

We then continued on to PICTON and anchored just outside the harbor as the harbor is too small to anchor no matter what the cruise guides say. It is a fast dingy ride to the municipal dock to use their phone to call customs or use your cell to check in. NO problem with this procedure.

You can tie up at the municipal dock for free to check in but there is a charge if you stay the night.

The lady at customs did not even ask for our passport numbers but did want to know if we had liquor and if we had anything that we would be leaving in Canada and that was about it. Oh, did want to know how long we intended to stay in country and where we would leave. Aside. It is easier for an U.S. citizen to get into Canada than it is for a U.S. citizen to get into the USA-----NO exaggeration.

We stayed there two nights and toured the town, ice cream is available but like everything else in Canada, it is expensive. Not much in the way of a convenient grocery store but we had stocked up in NY.

From there we went to Trenton and tied up at, of all places, the yacht club. The people who we met in Oswego and gave us the local knowledge, supra, are members and insisted that we stop. They have a really nice setup and it was a pleasure for us.

On leaving several days later, had an interesting incident. As I was backing into the fairway all of a sudden I was getting no power to the starboard wheel. Not good! There was a strong wind that caught the boat swung it around and we were being blown down the fairway between two rows of moored boats toward a steel bulkhead. Are we having fun yet??

I managed to get the boat to float down wind parallel to the bulkhead by use of the wheel and the other engine in forward and reverse. Of course this necessitated Pat moving all the fenders to the other side of the boat to cushion our landing on the bulkhead. After we made up I measured the clearance front and back, about 8 feet each! Upon checking I found that the starboard shaft had come adrift from the coupling. Fortunately this was an easy ten-minute fix. Of course we were then wind bound for all that day as there was absolutely no way off. The following morning the wind abated a little and we were able to swing the bow enough to turn and head out---unassisted I might add.

Upon entering the first of the 43 locks Pat came up with what turned out to be a great idea of using smaller and shorter lines for the locks than the 5/8x 40 ft. dock lines that we have. All of the locks on the Trent Severn have cables to which you tie to lock through. The cables are attached top and bottom so you pass your line around the cable and back to your boat. Of course when the bitter end is brought back, a wrap is taken on the cleat. This is much easier with the lighter lines.

I put together two lines, ½ inch by about 20 feet with an eye in one end. The eye is just large enough to fit through and around the cleats. Thus it is easy to reach out and pass the line around the cable and back to the cleat.

We prefer to make up on the starboard side but the following procedure works just as well with a portside tie.

We found that it is much easier for Pat to make up with a spring line on the quarter bit and as soon as she takes a turn on the cleat I place the starboard engine in forward, turn the wheel away from the wall and the stern comes right in against the wall. (This also works with a single engine boat.)

You ask, why use a spring line on a quarter instead of a bow line. Good question. The PRIMARY reason is that Pat is closer to the wall near the quarter bit as she is not on the bow where the curve of the bow sets her too far from the wall to quickly get the line around the cable. This is true whether the locks have cables, bollards, floating bollards or even ropes hanging (a la Erie and Cayuga-Seneca canals) down that one uses to tie up.---Think about it. In using this system we find that I can get her so close to the wall that she seldom has to resort to the use of a boat hook to make up the spring line.

Since we are on the subject I include the following that I posted several weeks ago as it illustrates the point.

Pat and I observed two people trying, desperately, to tie up a 40ft sun deck in a lock.Working really hard and in a serious strain. What they did was come into the lock and made up a bow line. The captain immediately LEFT THE WHEEL and came down to hold the bow line while the mate went aft to TRY to make up a stern line. I say try, because by now the wind had blown the stern off the wall. Need I say more!! The captain should NEVER leave the wheel until the boat is fully made up. In this case, had she stayed at the wheel, all she would have had to do was, as I stated supra, put the wheel hard over AWAY from the wall and put the eng in forward. This would have brought the stern in and held it there until the stern line was made up. I might add, at a leisurely pace, with no strain nor anxiety.

NOTE, this is not to say that we have not had difficult dockings (and lockings) but it is not from a lack of planning. Occasionally wind will come up or the current will catch the boat, but we hope that we have minimized such incidents to SUDDEN OCCURRENCE and not part of our normal docking (locking) procedure!!!!!

Another thing, occasionally, the configuration of the dock or lock dictates a BOW line first and not a spring on the quarter bit. Once it is made up the procedure is the same as with a spring on the quarter bit.

Incidentally, the 12x36 inch fenders that Pat insisted on (for her fiftieth Birthday) have paid for themselves in spades in the locks. Pat advised me that “in spades” is a Southernism. It means many times over!

Back to the canal. We purchased a Transit Pass for the boat as this is the cheapest way to go and a Season Dockage Pass. The latter allows us to tie up for the night at all lock walls and at all of the docks in any Parks Canada park not just the docks in the canals.

Allow yourself enough time to stop in all of the towns along the way. We have and it is grand as each has something to offer.

While anchored off Chief Island at mile 202 after spending 3 days in Orillia I realized that we had made a whole 5.3 miles the day before and we had been on the canal for three whole weeks. Two things about that anchorage, one it is very large and a good thing as there were 81 boats in it. We broke our rule about not traveling on weekends and that is why we were there on a Sunday. It was interesting nonetheless. We were told that during “the season” there is many times that number every weekend. Pat has come to accept that it was a good idea to get here early in the summer and to be in Georgian Bay by the time the season gets in full swing.

The only area of the canal that demands your undivided and strict attention is Fenelon Falls to Orillia where it gets narrow and rocky. Pick a good weather day, don’t do it on a weekend, go slow and don’t try to make too many miles in one day. On leaving Fenelon Falls, Lock 40 is a good place to call it a day, as it is rural and very quiet just don’t drink the water. Not good. It is then a short hop to Orillia where the water is excellent.

We rode the Big Chute railway lock today. WOW, what a ride, really neat. Just pulled in and the attendants adjusted the straps and away we rode over the highway and the granite outcropping and then down to the water on the far side. Took less than 15 minutes for the entire operation. There was an electrical problem so we were delayed for two hours but that was a minor inconvenience.

We are now at Port Severn the western terminus of the Canal and will transit the last lock in the morning into Georgian Bay. The discussion about removal of buoys is really of little consequence, as the ones that were removed do not affect the main channel.

The Trent Severn is certainly a National Treasure for Canada and something not to miss, just as it would be a serious error to not do the Rideau and Champlain Canals. Pat and I actually like those two better but the scenery on all is spectacular.

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GEORGIAN BAY

We managed to spend more than 3 weeks transiting the Trent Severn Canal (240 miles long), which, compared to our transit of the Rideau (135 miles and three weeks) last season was rather fast. The difference is that the Rideau has so many more towns and areas to visit and spend time. Having done the Champlain, Rideau, Oswego and Cayuga-Seneca I found the Rideau to be the best of the lot. We have not done all of the Erie so the jury is still out on that one. We do look forward to it next season.

On our 8th day on Georgian Bay we had only made it to the 40-mile mark, above San Souci Island. Spent some time at Orillia and also anchored at
Chief Island. Both are nice and Chief gives you a heads up as to what is to come in the Bay.

Likewise a stop at Penetang is in order particularly if you need a marina. For first class service use Hindson Marine, these are really nice folks. Those of you looking for top-drawer bath facilities ashore you will be satisfied.

We made the decision to see as much of the Bay and North Channel as possible therefore we anchored at Chief as mentioned, Magazine Island in Penetang Harbor, Longuissa Point, Twelve Mile Bay and Port Rawson Bay and this was in the first week.

Twelve Mile Bay has an excellent anchorage in the inlet one mile up the river from the channel on the right ascending bank. Don’t let the narrow entrance scare you, hang to the starboard side and go on in, it is deep. As you go through the pass into the small bay look in the water to your left and see the rock just underwater. The Mate should look not the Captain. Note the charted rocks in the center of the anchorage. One word, BEAUTIFUL. Take time to go hiking, we did and saw a large beaver dam among other sites.

The route up to Port Rawson Bay, there is no port, is just a few miles north of San Souci and is well marked, as always on the Bay, pay strict attention to your navigation. It is a very scenic cove surrounded by rocks and fir trees. Friends from Penetang came in so we spent three nights there before heading up to Isabella Island to visit more “ e-buds” as THE WIFE refers to people who I have met on the net such as the friends at Orillia and Penetang. In fact their marking up my charts has been invaluable, after all this is their home ground so they know all the good places to visit so that we were not relegated to the places that the “ high ballers” use. Those are the cruisers who are hurrying through to keep to a schedule. That brings to mind an article that I wrote for a magazine about the most dangerous thing that one may have on a boat---a schedule-----! I digress.

The friends who joined us, are, shall we say, very conversant with the area and we took an entire day to dingy around numerous bays in the area. OK, here is the general scenic dinghy route from Port Rawson: through North Channel, Coon Gap, and Portage Bay. South of Francis Island, up to and South of Georgina Is., Moon River Bay, up Moon River thru Arnold’s Bay and beyond. On the way back, up and around the perimeter of lackstone Harbor to Calhoun Lodge grounds and back to Port Rawson anchorage. This is about 20 miles or so. Several areas are shallow and I mean, raise the outboard shallow, but that is only two or three short distances. Get some local knowledge and go for it. This is a park area and a detailed map/chart of the area is available for $10, which I recommend. You will see many kayaks and canoes in this area. We stopped and walked to two fantastic waterfalls (the only water falls in South Louisiana is when a levee fails) and several other interesting places such as Calhoun Cottage. It is a group of buildings constructed about 1900 and eventually turned into a small resort. It is abandoned but all is still in place and in remarkably good condition. It is neat to see how things were back then, right down to the wood stoves and real “ice boxes”. Somewhere up there we managed to find a fish and chips food stand, heck it hardly had a sign.

After Port Rawson anchorage we then moved on to Menominee Channel behind Isabella Island for a day or so to visit more “e -buds”. This is within two miles of the town of Parry Harbor. We came up the South Small Boat Channel and went out the northern route to not backtrack. There are just so many great anchorages and places to see from them that it is difficult to choose which to use. A couple of things, before you fill your water tanks, in Georgian Bay, be certain to determine that the water is WELL WATER and not lake water. Don’t rely on asking the dock attendant whether or not the water is “ potable”! Specifically ask if it is well water. If it is lake water make sure that it is treated and taste it before taking it on board.

You will note that our average daily run is about 10 miles, ok sometimes we make 20 (or a few more) but only if necessary. This gives us a lot of time to go ashore (for THE WIFE, nap) and generally take it easy. Oh, the great benefit of short runs; we are almost always the FIRST BOAT IN THE ANCHORAGE and therefore the recipient of all of the rights, emoluments and privileges thereunto appertaining. Need I say more?

A little cruising info. Our e-bud in Orillia, Dave Wright is a mechanic and has a shop so should you be in need of one his shop is SUN CITY AUTO REPAIR and he has a really nice trawler that he and his wife completely redid themselves----purchased after it was sunk in a hurricane in Florida. (Small world out there---it used to belong to friends of ours.)

A first class anchorage is Kitsilano at Barclay Island just below Pointe au Baril. Just the right size, reasonable depth and immediately off the channel. One thing that we are gradually becoming adjusted to is that it does not get dark until 10 pm due to the high latitude!!

Except for our noted excursions off the recommended channel we have stayed close to it. We went outside at Pointe au Baril and ran a compass course to Byng Inlet to avoid the Hang Dog channel. This is only about 18 miles. So far, all buoys that are indicated on the paper charts are in place and then some. Speaking of paper charts. We have a set of the Small Craft charts as well as the Richardson’s Book of charts of the Bay. I prefer the Small Craft charts but Pat likes the Richardson’s. We also have a full set of the LC large full size flat charts of the Bay and North Channel. The ones covering the offshore runs are particularly helpful and give a good overview of the area. We are also running Coastal Explorer computer navigation software by Rose Point and are very satisfied with it. It reads any type chart that you load.

Do plan a stop at Byng Inlet, as it is a nice quiet place. Not much in the way of an anchorage so we tied up at Wrights Marina, $1.40 per ft plus $5 for wifi. Should we return we would not use it. There is another marina. Did I mention that they charge $1 for a shower?

Weather note. The run on the outside to Byng can be bumpy so monitor the winds before you leave, same for the leg from Byng to the Bustard Islands and then to Bad River. (The reason one runs offshore from Point au Baril to Byng Inlet is the Hang Dog Channel that is not suitable for larger boats.) Bad River is really good and a don’t miss anchorage. (Even if you are using the inside route.)

The reach between Byng and the Bustards is challenging. In places it is narrow as in, “You mean that this boat is supposed to go through there?” Some of the buoys, pins in the local lingo, look as though they were set for PWC’s. Our welcome to this “phenomena” was the exit from the last lockon the Trent into Georgian Bay. The current is extremely strong leaving the lock and there is a sharp “S” turn under a narrow bridge with the pins so closely spaced that they appear to be off station. They are not and there are rocks that you can see as you pass to prove it.

In the Northern reaches of the Bay there are so many anchorages, one better than the next that it is difficult to choose. One day we actually only went 7 miles from one anchorage to another.

Beaverstone Bay and Mill Lake certainly fit the description for grand anchorages. For us South Louisiana types, being among all the rocks is a true experience as we have only sand, mud, grass and trees.

Killarney is the end of Georgian Bay and the beginning of the North Channel. We have spent 19 days on the Bay and to do it in any less time would not do it justice. The Bay is 168 miles long and we did 240 miles on it. The last reach into Killarney is the Collins Inlet Channel. This seven-mile run is worth the entire trip, steep granite cliffs on both sides along with a lot of trees and clear deep (enough) water. We were told that many doing the Great Circle go offshore and miss this leg. Don’t do that!!!!

Killarney is a delightful village where we went ashore for the obligatory fish and chips, ice cream and fudge. Groceries are few and expensive, very expensive, so stock up before you get there.

THE WIFE pointed out to me that today, as I pen this on July 7, 2008, is our 63rd day on the boat. That brings up a few statistics: We are 6,063 miles from Patterson, Louisiana having left on March 1, 2006 and 692 miles during this season.

In closing, THE WIFE said that I should adopt “ Canada attire”, shorts, T- shirt, sandals and a windbreaker. One day, in a restaurant, I was the only male with long pants. It may be summer for these guys but it is cold for me!

Next: The North Channel.